Aside from scene photography I likewise have an enthusiasm for full scale photography as well. It is such a differing subject and covers such a wide assortment of themes that there will be something that will engage each picture taker out there.
The colossal thing about this subject is that it can be honed effortlessly inside at home so you are not continually depending on the climate as you are with scene photography.
I need to impart to you a portion of the tips I have learned through training and experimentation so you can keep away from some dissatisfaction and committing similar errors I did. I will first quickly cover gear and after that concentration (pardon the play on words!) on the different strategies that I utilize.
Quit for the day – This is by a wide margin the least expensive alternative yet additionally offers the poorest optical quality. On the off chance that you are uncertain about whether you will do full scale photography all the time then this is a decent method for discovering.
These focal points are generally exceptionally modest at around £20.00 or $30.00 and ordinarily come in sets of three. They just screw onto the finish of your focal point like typical channels do and resemble putting an amplifying glass before the focal point.
Expansion tubes – more costly for non specific ones and significantly more costly for marked ones, and now and again they can cost as much as a mid range focal point!
These are just tubes that sit between the camera body and the focal point expanding the base centering separation of your focal point. Again these likewise ordinarily come in sets of three to enable you to pick the measure of amplification you are getting. The electrical contacts may likewise be available to enable the self-adjust on your focal point to at present work, yet in the larger part of cases self-adjust has an extremely hard time with full scale subjects so manual centering is the favored alternative.
There are two primary focal points with expansion tubes over close up focal points:
1. Optical quality is exclusively down to the focal point you are utilizing since there are no focal points or glass in the augmentation tube.
2. Gigantic amplification can be accomplished, much more so than with a committed full scale focal point.
Committed Macro Lens – If you are not kidding about your full scale photography then this is the approach. A decent devoted full scale focal point should give no less than a 1:1 proportion implying that items will show up life estimate on the sensor, will center down to just a couple of centimeters and offer superb optical quality and quick openings especially on the off chance that it is a prime (settled central length) focal point.
Obviously committed full scale focal points are not just only for large scale photography, they likewise make superb representation focal points and great short range zooming focal points on the more extended central length ones.
Remote discharge – For all the above strategies I would very prescribe that you put resources into some kind of remote discharge, either link or remote. With the high amplifications your are shooting at squeezing the shade discharge catch can be sufficient to present camera shake and destroy the shot. A link discharge can be purchased for just a couple of pounds or dollars so there is extremely no reason for not having one!
Because of the little separations included and exceptionally limit profundity of field I would just suggest that you just ever utilize manual centering. Self-adjust can work to a certain extent yet you will just get disappointed as the self-adjust locks, opens, chases, locks, opens, hunts…… you get the thought! Additionally because of the greatly limit profundity of field at short separations the self-adjust may seem as though it has bolted where you need it. It isn’t until the point that you take a gander at the picture on your PC that you see that it really secured marginally front or behind where you needed it!
On the off chance that you are shooting outside and it isn’t excessively breezy then I would propose utilizing a tripod and empowering live view on your camera. Live view is a genuine gift from heaven for full scale. It can be hard to tell through the view discoverer alone on the off chance that you are effectively centered, so I normally empower live view at that point zoom in, at that point correct the core interest. It is astounding how often you think you have the emphasis spot on until the point that you empower live view and zoom in just to see it is off marginally! I would likewise prescribe that you utilize reflect lockup to limit any vibrations from the mirror swinging up out the way when you are really taking the shot.
In the event that you are shooting inside and you are utilizing a Canon camera then I very suggest you make utilization of the utility remote control programming that accompanies it. This enables you to utilize the PC or Mac screen as live view with constant opening sneak peak, zoom and shooting! A fantastic device for the full scale or still life picture taker! Other camera producers likewise offer this element so check yours for subtle elements.
In circumstances where a tripod as well as live view isn’t reasonable, for example, outside in under quiet conditions and where you have to utilize higher screen speeds, you can utilize the shaking technique for centering. This is finished by generally setting the concentration physically then you shake in reverse and advances tenderly while looking through the view discoverer until the point when you think you have sharp core interest. A decent tip here is to put your camera in to rapid shooting mode at that point shoot a couple of edges as you move in reverse and advances. A sort of harsh a prepared concentration sectioning! I utilize this technique oftentimes and it guarantees you get no less than one sharp picture from each burst of shots.
Profundity of Field
The measure of profundity of field accessible to you at close centering separations is to a great degree constrained contrasted with what you have with different types of photography. At quick gaps of f2.8 you may just have two or three millimeters and even at f16 this may just reach out to a centimeter or two relying upon how close you are and the level of amplification utilized. An expression of caution here, don’t be enticed to utilize gaps over f16 to expand the profundity of field. Diffraction of light at little openings still applies to large scale photography as it does to scene photography. Picture sharpness in full scale pictures is of highest significance, some say considerably more so that in scene pictures so it does not merit trading off your pictures along these lines.
With regards to channels for large scale photography, aside from a sky facing window or UV channel which I keep on every one of my focal points all the ideal opportunity for insurance, the main channel I utilize much of the time is a polarizing channel.
As in scene photography these will develop and immerse hues especially on the off chance that you shoot outside on bright says. They will likewise expel reflections from non-metallic surfaces so in the event that you are shooting wet or dew secured questions or water beads and you need to keep the appearance in these then don’t utilize the polariser! You likewise need to recollect that utilizing the polariser will likewise lessen your shade speed by maybe a couple stops so ensure its utilization isn’t making your screen speed too low on the off chance that you are shooting handheld. One final point – a polarizing channel is the main channel that can’t be reproduced in Photoshop!